Pattern grading is essentially all about how to take a single size pattern and make it bigger or smaller in order to fit a different sized figure. This is especially important in vintage clothing patterns where the pattern was made in very limited sizes and your own size may not be available at all. While it sounds simple, it’s much more complicated than just adding a few centimetres onto your current pattern! Here’s a quick and easy guide to this valuable process from Empisal, leaders in sewing machine technology.

The cut and spread method

This is the easiest method by far – all you need is a ruler, tracing paper, measuring tape, pen, scissors and your pattern.

Step One: Trace the pattern out onto tracing paper. This way, you will be able to keep your original pattern intact.

Step Two: Compare the original size to the size you want to achieve and note down the difference. For example, if the waist is say 90cm and you want a 100cm waist, the difference is 10cm. Do this for each and every measurement.

Step Three: Place horizontal and vertical lines on your traced out pattern in a grid marking out where the pattern is going to increase or decrease and cut along those lines.

Step Four: Divide the difference by each piece of the pattern, adding equal amounts to each side. For example, if you have a 4cm difference, you will add 2cm to the front and back. Two vertical cuts with need 1/2cm between the pieces and, as a general rule, horizontal cuts need 1/2cm as well. Once your pattern is spread out properly, you’ll have the correct size pieces.

Step Five: Pin your new outline onto a new sheet of tracing paper and redraw your pattern, giving you a whole new pattern to sew from!

grading

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